Modification of regenerated cellulose fibres by cork-derived suberin and the cutin fraction from grape skins

abstract

Regenerated cellulose fibres from dissolving pulp are a versatile alternative to cotton fibres on the path to the sustainable textile industry. In this study, cellulose fibres obtained by the Ioncell-F (R) process (Ioncell fibres) were modified by adding 10 % (w/w) of suberin compounds isolated from cork (SUB) or a cutin fraction from grape skins (CUT) in the spinning dope. Although both SUB and CUT modified fibres revealed higher hydrophobicity than unmodified fibres, fibres doped with CUT showed better waterproof performance than those doped with SUB. This was explained by the better retention of CUT than SUB on the regenerated fibres and by the higher hydrophobicity of CUT. Differences in the strength properties of Ioncell fibres obtained by pilot-scale dry-jet wet spinning were related to their physical structure, whereas dirt repellence and susceptibility to enzymatic hydrolysis depended on the occurrence and amounts of retained CUT or SUB.

keywords

TEXTILE FIBERS; IONCELL-F; BETULIN

subject category

Chemistry; Polymer Science

authors

Moriam, K; Azevedo, C; Fateixa, S; Fateixa, F; Sixta, H; Evtuguin, D

our authors

acknowledgements

The financial support of this work by Caima - Industria de Celulose S. A. and by project CICECO-Aveiro Institute of Materials, UIDB/50011/2020 (DOI 10.54499/UIDB/50011/2020) , UIDP/50011/2020 (DOI 10.54499/UIDP/50011/2020) & LA/P/0006/2020 (DOI 10.54499/LA/P/0006/2020) , financed by national funds through the FCT/MCTES (PIDDAC) . This was also done within the scope of Finland Academy project (under the project WTF-Click-Nano) , Tekniikan Edistamissaatio, Finnish Cultural Foundation, Puunjalostus Insinoorit, Walter Ahlstrom Foundation and Jenny and Antti Wihuri grant foundation. Dr. Sara Fateixa thanks FCT for research contract funded by National funds (OE) , in the scope of the framework contract foreseen in the numbers 4, 5, and 6 of article 23, of the Decree-Law 57/2016, of August 29, changed by Law 57/2017, of July 19 (DOI 10.54499/DL57/2016/CP1482/CT0007) . The authors also gratefully acknowledge Nicole Nygren (Aalto University) for her support in fibre testing; Simone Haslinger and Leena Katajainen for their help during fibre spinning; Azovskaya Valeriya (Aalto university) for assisting in image/photo preparation; students from Aveiro University Teodora Silva, Adriana Correia and Liliana Lameiras for their help in producing suberin and cutin-modified fibres.

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